"Kenya Times"
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"I don't think we're in Kansas anymore, Toto!", Dorothy in "the Wizard of Oz"

Latest News - Ian is back home from working this Summer in Africa!!! (August 5, 2009)

Quick Progress Report 8/5/09:

Young boy in Ukwala Kenya (Ian MacLellan)

"Where in the world is Ian today?"
Lincoln, Massachusetts, USA

Getting a haircut from Dad before the trip

Sunday May 31, 2009

Boston Skyline from the Longfellow Bridge

Monday June 2, 2009

  • Ian flew from Boston to Amsterdam, The Northwest/KLM flight was delayed by almost four hours due to pilot sickness (taken to Mass General Hospital, illness unknown).

Shops in Amsterdam Airport

Tuesday June 2, 2009

From Ian's blog:
"I am currently in the airport in Amsterdam, way behind schedule because my flight was delayed 4 hours from Boston to Amsterdam because the captain of the plane fell ill and had to go to Mass General. KLM did a wonderful job of automatically booking everyone onto the next available flight and they give out food vouchers too! They are worth a lot more in Amsterdam cause itís ten Euros vs. ten US Dollars. I bought an expensive UV filter at a fancy Amsterdam store (this is a very fancy airport, there is a museum and massage stationÖ and like 8 or 9 diamonds stores). I only bought 15 minutes of internet so will upload photos when I can.

I have also been taking a lot of short videos so look forward to those all coming together over the next couple months. Woot! Iíll be in Kenya a few days late, but will still get to be in Kenya, so no complaining"

Wednesday June 3, 2009

  • No word today from Ian. His flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi arrived arrived a few minutes early. Joy was planning on meeting him at the Nairobi Airport.

Kisumu Airport

Thursday June 4, 2009

Kenya Commercial Bank in Kisumu City Center

Friday June 5, 2009

  • Ian writes:

      "I paid for the flight (from Nairobi to Kisumu) in Kenyan shillings - it was 6900 or so. We also bought a 3G Internet modem which was 5000 ksh, so it's been a very expensive day.
      "My room in Nairobi and two breakfasts and a dinner was $42. Tomorrow we plan on paying for half the room price (we will be here for 6 weeks or so), so something around $210, which for 21 days isn't bad.

      "Humera and I are living in a little two bedroom house, with a bathroom (heated
      shower and everything!), living room, and a kitchen with an electric stove and microwave. We made pasta tonight, but will need to start getting creative with our meals, perhaps learning how to cook local dishes. I have to go back to sleep in a little bit and should be able to write much more tomorrow.

      "All is well and we are both still happy and healthy."

Saturday June 6, 2009

  • 8:55 AM EDT, 3:55 PM Local
    • Just spoke with Ian via Skype to his mobile. He was out having lunch with Humera, pleasant weather in the lower 80's. They were walking around Kisumu center, to the bank to get some money, and then down by Lake Victoria. He reports that Kisumu is very nice and he feels that it is safe.
    • Yesterday they visited a maximum security prison with a lawyer. They interviewed some prisoners that don't have legal representation and the lawyers gave them advice. No photos allowed.
    • For dinner last night, Ian and Humera made pasta (again). Time for some different dinner fare!
    • For Internet connectivity, they have a wireless modem that uses the local 3G network, seems to behave like a 56Kb modem.
    • Read Humera's article on the IBJ Blog.
  • 4:46 PM EDT, 11:46 PM Local
    • Called Ian over Skype to his mobile (you can only speak for a minute or so before the line drops - he was able to speak with Brittany for alomost 30 minutes earlier):
    • Ian went to the grocery store after lunch today and bought some cucumbers, apples, spices, more pasta, OJ, and water (local water probably is not safe to drink). He and Humera worked some more today.
    • For dinner tonight Ian and Humera made pasta with tomato, bean, and egg with fried cucumbers.
    • Ian reported that the power only went out once today.
    • Tomorrow they plan on more walking around Kisumu.

Sunday June 7, 2009

  • 10:36 AM EDT, 5:36 PM Local:
    • Had a quick talk with Ian via Skype (the conversation keeps on dropping after about 30 seconds). He and Humera are out exploring Kisumu again, haven't had lunch yet. It rained briefly today and the weather is very pleasent. Will try to speak with him later.
  • 5:20 PM EDT, 12:20 AM Local

Images from CLEAR broadcast at Kisumu radio station - Click for full story (Ian MacLellan)

Monday June 8, 2009

  • 2:10 PM EDT, 9:10 PM Local
    • Spoke with Ian this afternoon. He was at a local radio station that was running a radio show hosted by CLEAR Kenya --- the Christian Legal Education Aid & Research organization. You could hear the broadcast in the background. CLEAR Kenya broadcasts weekly legal advice and education talks on local radio stations. Ian was taking pictures, listening, and observing. He and Humera were taking a taxi back to the house later Monday evening.
    • Tonight was Leftovers Night, reheating the spicy rice, corn, and hash browns from Sunday's dinner.
    • Ian sounded good, perhaps just a wee bit tired. Looking forward to hearing more from Ian tomorrow.
  • "Alive and well, coming at you live from Kisumu, Kenya"

Peter Onyango Daniel thinking outside the court house in Oyugis (Ian MacLellan)

Tuesday June 9, 2009

Teddy teaches high school students about Kenyan law (Ian MacLellan)

Wednesday June 10, 2009

Mr.Henry Kissinger (Ian MacLellan)

Thursday June 11, 2009

A student at Xavier Secondary School's Law Club (Ian MacLellan)

Friday June 12, 2009

Thunderstorm over Kisumu, Kenya (Ian MacLellan)

Saturday June 13, 2009

  • 3:17 PM EDT, 10:17 PM Local
    • Spoke briefly with Ian - he was visting Teddy's mother's house, will speak with him later.
  • 4:16 PM EDT, 11:30 Local
    • Today Ian went to visit a Kisumu juvenile detention center with Dennis. The center was celebrating "Day of the African Child" and they sponsored many activities that Ian was able to participate in including plays, poems, music, etc. Ian reported that it was a sad place where the children ranged in age from four to sixteen years old. The children were there for a wide variety of reasons including being homeless, arrested, or orphaned. Several asked Ian for help and he was kind and polite to everyone.
    • While he was there, there were busses of other muzungus (white people) from NGO's and some may have been tourists. Repeatedly Ian was given business cards from the NGO folks and they wanted him to work for them. He was able to take hundreds of digital pictures and hopes to edit and upload several to his blog tonight. Ian said that there is another day of this planned on Tuesday.
    • For lunch they served a mystery meat --- no one was able to identify what it was. The children indicated that they don't usually have meat and that this was special.
    • After going to the detention center, Ian met up with Humera and Teddy. They went over to visit Teddy's family. Teddy's mother is the principal at a girl's secondary school and they live inside the school's compound. She made them a great dinner of chapatti, green grams, and cabbage. Ian politely eats whatever he is served and thoroughly enjoyed the dinner.
    • In the background, you can hear incessant barking from the local dogs (very loud) and all sorts of other noises from cars, chickens, music, radios, etc. It's got to be hard for Ian and Humera to relax or sleep with all that racket going on! We wished him "good night" and look forward to speaking with Ian tomorrow.
  • Be sure to check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Thunderstormz"!

Boys dancing at the juvenile center celebrating "Day of the Afican Child" (Ian MacLellan)"

Sunday June 14, 2009

  • 5:15 PM EDT, 12:15 AM Local
    • Spoke with Ian while we were visting with Alex at tha Hampshire College Farm.
    • Today he went to Kisumu with Humera. First she went to a local mosque while Ian waited outside. Later for lunch they went to Netta's with some of Humera's acquantences from McGill.
    • Ian reported that he got back to their house around 9:30 tonight and did not eat dinner.
  • Be sure to check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Day of the African Child"!

A boy at the juvenile detention center in Kisumu (Ian MacLellan)

Monday June 15, 2009

  • Spoke with Ian via Net2Phone to his mobile. Good quality connection. Didn't hear the usual racket of dogs, chickens, and cars. Kisumu had gone to bed for the night.Today Ian met up with a Tufts alumni Josh Goldstein --- found him via Twitter. Josh is a graduate of Tuft's Fletcher Graduate School of International Affairs and is working in Africa for USAID in Uganda and Kenya. He's been working on get low cost mobile phones into people's hands. They had lunch together at a Kisumu restaurant and ate Indonesian Chicken.
  • We spoke about his visit to the juvenile detention center on Saturday. Ian commented that the kids don't go to school while they are there and that health conditions are mixed. We spoke about the kids with yellowish eyes and what might be causing that. Also Ian pointed most of the high school kids - both girls and boys, have shaved heads. Not clear why, but everyone is like that.
    Ian went into the CLEAR office today. They are moving the office location tomorrow and Ian will get the new address so that folks can perhaps send him care packages or letters.
  • Tonight Ian cooked a dinner for himself and Humera of potatoes and cream and chicken with green and yellow peppers.
  • Sadly Ian's "point and shoot" Ricoh R8 camera is broken. He lent it to someone to shoot a video and something happened - first the battery died, then the lens stopped working, finally it wouldn't turn on despite his best efforts. Ian is bummed!

An infant at the New Life Home Trust Orphanage (Ian MacLellan)

Tuesday June 16, 2009

  • "Day of the African Child"
  • 5:25 AM EDT, 12:25 PM Local
    • Spoke to Ian for only a minute this morning. He was helping move CLEAR to a new office in Kisumu. You could hear the sounds of people carrying boxes and things in the background.
  • 5:57 PM EDT, 12:57 AM Local
    • Spoke with Ian for a little less than ten minutes tonight. The phone call was very poor quality with more than a second delay from the time he spoke until I could hear him.
    • This morning Ian helped with the move of CLEAR to their new office. Ian said it was close to the old office. Ian also described a visit from an NGO, but the connection was so bad I couldn't make out what he was saying.
    • Later in the afternoon, Ian returned to Xavier Secondary School for a Law Club get together. It was not the regular Law Club meeting, somehow less formal.
    • Afterwards, he went back to his house and then they went out to dinner at the Re Café for Chicken and chips. Ian reported that it was OK.
    • Humera was doing well and everything else is good. It sounded pretty quiet at his house, no dogs barking, chickens clucking, or music blaring.
    • Tomorrow they are planning a trip to the Kisumu High Court. Later they plan on going to Lake Victoria and "go to the beach" where they've been before. Ian said that it was not really a beach, more of the shore area, but that is what people call it.
  • Be sure to check out Ian's latest blog entry - "New Life Home Trust Orphanage"

 No pictures today!

Wednesday June 17, 2009

  • 6:31 PM EDT, 1:20 AM Local
    • Failed to reach Ian today --- we was actually asleep when called! Ian has been staying up until 2:00 or 3:00 in the morning, but obviously needed nis beauty sleep.

Ian planning his activities for the next six weeks (Ian MacLellan)

Thursday June 18, 2009

  • 5:40 AM EDT, 12:40 Local
    • Just had a conversation with Ian. Excellent quality connection.
    • He was still at his house in Kisumu, planning out today and tomorrow. They were discussing whether to go out on a fishing boat onto Lake Victoria or joining an NGO to a trip to the Kakuma refugee camp north of Kisumu.
    • Last night they all went out for dinner again to Re Cafe. Ian has his usual plate of beans and chapatti for dinner.
    • He sounded well rested and full of his usual energy. He also wanted to make sure everyone wished Brittany "Happy Birthday!"
  • Two great blog entries:
    • "Last Few Days"
    • "Planning Time"
      • "So Iíve been in Kisumu for almost two weeks now and I decided a few days ago that I really need to sit down and organize out everything I want to do and everything I want to cover for the general story on legal issues and human rights in Kenya.
      • "I started out making lists with check boxes next to each item so I could check them off when I was done. I figured I wouldnít actually get to check things off for awhile and expanded my search to the yellow pages for all of Kenya..."

Mr. Kissinger with a watermelon at a youth meeting (Ian MacLellan) 

Friday June 19, 2009

  • 6:22 AM EDT, 1:22 PM Local
    • Just got off the phone with Ian. He was at the CLEAR Kisumu office about to head out for lunch. Very bad connection via Skype - I could hear Ian but after a few seconds he could not hear me.
    • This morning they went to a peaceful demonstration against police violence in Kisumu. Ian was not sure who orgainized it, perhaps the local Bishop who spoke. People were protesting against the poor treatment and issues they are having with the police.
    • For lunch, they were going to the local Police mess hall. Ian reported that the mess hall it is open to the public and would give him a chance to meet some of the police officers.
    • Looking forward to speaking with Ian later today. He sounded great today.

"Churches are everywhere so I should really have a picture of one..." (Ian MacLellan) 

Saturday June 20, 2009

  • 5:50 AM EDT, 12:50 PM Local
    • Dad and Uncle Igs called Ian for a quick update this morning. He was at a meeting at the Kisumu Hotel with IBJ and CLEAR. We'll speak with him again later today.
  • 2:00 PM EDT, 7:45 PM Local
    • Spoke with Ian while driving. Ian, Joy (from IBJ), and Humera were at their house in Kisumu. This afternoon, they had visited Hippo Point, but despite its name there are no Hippopotamuses! Joy is staying with Ian and Humera despite the small siaz of their house (sounds like she and Humera may have to share a bed). No definitive dinner plans yet.
    • Ian thinks that he may have found a running route outside of Kisumu. Told him to be very careful and perhaps find a fellow native runner to join him.
  • From Casey and Maria: Performance by Perpetuum Jazzile and The Real Group singling "Africa" that simulates a rain storm (wait a few seconds for the sound!)

View of Lake Victoria at Hippo Point (Ian MacLellan)

Sunday June 21, 2009

  • Be sure to check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Hippo Point"
  • 9:45 AM EDT, 4:45 PM Local
    • Had a quick call with Ian - very poor quality on Skype on the call, each call would only last 30-40 seconds. Ian wished me a "Happy Fathers Day!" Ian sounded great.
    • Today Ian and crew travelled north to the town called Vihiga. There they met with a "justice maker" and gave him a $1,000 grant (the GDP per capita in Kenya is estimated at $1,600 so this is a substantial grant). Ian reported that Vahiga is a typical Kenyan town, very poor.
    • Joy Mdivo from IBJ went back to her home in Nairobi this morning (couldn't hear from Ian how she was traveling). We're going to try to connect with Ian later today and perhaps have a longer call.
  • 4:00 PM EDT, 11:00 PM Local
    • Tonight Ian watched a James Bond movie tonight - "For Your Eyes Only". Apparently he bought the pirated video from a woman street vendor for 200 Kenyan Shillings (about $2.50 USD). Buying a pirated DVD is on Ian's "To Do's" for Kenya. (See: "Planning Time" for Ian's list)
    • For food tonight Ian made a peanut and bannana sandwich. He commented that the peanut butter ws "not realy all that good" and may cook something more substantial later tonight.
    • In the backbround you could hear Humera's music playing away.
    • Tomorrow Ian might take a day off from work and explore Kisumu.
  • 6:21 PM EDT, 1:21 AM Local
    • We all spoke with Ian via Skype-to-Skype tonight. Excellent connection! Stephen and Ian chatted away --- first time that they've spoken since he been there. Ian admitted to Stephen that he's drinking soda (and juice occasinally, but that's expensive) while in Kenya, since it's one of the few safe things to drink. They spoke a lot about food. Ian claimed he couldn't get a live chicken at the market to butcher and cook because he didn't have a sharp knife.
    • Stephen suggested that Ian teach Humera about blogs since all professonal journalists use blogs. The big question was: "Was Henry Kissinger named after the real Henry Kissinger?" The answer was, "No." He was very talkative with Stephen!
    • Ian was asking about how Skype and VoIP handles something called "echo cancellation". Here's a link for him to check out.
    • Ian also has an NGO contact that he's going speak with about the refugee camps to the north.
  • Check out Ian's blog posting to the Tufts Exposure web site
  • Check out Humera Jabir's postings to the IBJ blog (including Ian's photos)

Humera interviewing Evan, the man from Vihiga that received IBJ's Just Maker award (Ian MacLellan)

Monday June 22, 2009

Joy Mdivo was crowned JusticeMaker at the CLEAR Kisumu offices by Sanjeewa on Saturday (Ian MacLellan)

Tuesday June 23, 2009

  • Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Joy Mdivo crowned JusticeMaker"
  • 6:10 AM EDT, 1:10 PM Local
    • Just spoke with Ian on his mobile phone via Skype, an OK connection that dropped only once
    • Today Ian travelled to a small village an hour and a half to the west of Kisumu with Dennis and Christine. They were planning on meeting with the villagers giving them basic legal education. Ian did not know the name of the village. He hadn't spoken with anyone from the village yet and was about to do so when I called.
    • Ian reported that is was hot and dusty there and he was sniffling just a bit. They are planning on spending a few days there, staying overnight in a small secondary school. Humera and Peter were going to join them tomorrow.
    • Will speak with Ian again later today.
  • 4:41 PM EDT, 11:41 PM Local
    • Just spoke with Ian. He only had a time for a quick conversation as he was at the local Catholic church where he staying. He reported that they were slow to start their legal education at the village (failed to get the exact village name from Ian). Steve called Ian's mobile phone via Net2Phone and conferenced Pauline in on the call. Good call quality and no "drops".
    • Tomorrow Ian and party are heading westward to the town of Akala.
    • It sounded like Ian may be suffering from allergy problems, especially from the dust. He said he was taking some Benadryl --- and sounded tired on the phone.
    • He is looking forward to speaking with us tomorrow.

Young boy dressed for school in Ukwala Kenya (Ian MacLellan)

Wednesday June 24, 2009

  • 6:30 AM EDT, 1:30 PM Local
    • Unable to reach Ian, likely travelleing.
  • 11:20 AM EDT, 6:20 PM Local
    • Spoke to Ian. He is on the road northwest of Kisumu in the village of Ukwala Kenya, west of the B1 highway. They were hoping to do some legal education and awareness, but do not have permission from the local chief to do so. They met with the deputy chief, but apparently they are not important enough for an audience with the chief. He feels that the area is safe and Ian reported that they were expecting it to start raining in the next few minutes.
    • For lunch today they had Ugali (a type of cornmeal and water), chicken, and kale. Ian said it was good, but wasn't really sure if it was kale. In background you could hear kids. Ian said he was standing next to a small boy who was tending to his lambs. The Catholics served them dinner last night.
    • Ian reported that his allergies are a little better. What he's been doing is sometimes taking Benadryl at night for this.
    • Last night he and the crew stayed at the Catholic church, sleeping in the quarters that they have for missionaries. They expect to return to Kisumu tomorrow morning. He said that he would really try to get us the mailing address for the CLEAR offices so that we could send him a CARE package.

Young boy in Ukwala Kenya (Ian MacLellan)

Thursday June 25, 2009

  • Pauline (Ian's mom) reported:
    • "I spoke with Ian around 2:00 this afternoon. He had just returned from his three day visit to the villages northwest of Kisumu and he and Humera had restocked their kitchen at the market. He was tired and hungry. The visit had not been as unproductive as he hoped, but Ian had been able to get up early this morning and hitch a ride on the back of a motorbike to take photographs at a river he had noticed that was about 25 minutes away.
    • "He told me that he had gotten a few good portraits of people on the trip, along with some interesting landscape shots. Humera had joined them on the second day. The first day, she had gone to court with Peter. They had stayed in the Catholic Church.
    • "Ian was ready for a good shower and some dinner, so I kept the call short."
  • Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Back from Ukwala"

No Ian in Kisumu Kenya (looks like he's lost some weight!!!)

Friday June 26, 2009

  • 5:10 PM EDT, 12:10 AM Local
    • Had a great (and long) conversation with Ian via Net2Phone to his mobile. He had lots of messages and information to pass on. He had a chance to speak with Brittany today and update her on his whereabouts.
      He's been back in Kisumu, but not too much happened today. He did meet up with two Kenyan geologists and they had lunch at the police mess hall. They talked about blasting.
    • For dinner tonight, Ian cooked a meal of potatoes, chapatti, and caramelized apples. What a cook! (Hey, didn't he claim not to know how to cook?)
    • Ian said to pass on a "congratulations" to his Mother on joining Healthworks.
    • Ian was interested in Alex's farming jobs and especially liked the story about Alex helping delivery the calf.
    • He is looking for some way to go visit some of the farms in the area. Heard that there are large farms outside of Kisumu and thought it would be a good photography opportunity. We talked about the water situation in Kenya and even though it's OK in Kisumu, it's a major problem in other areas.
    • Ian says to tell Stephen and Heather: "If you can wait just a bit, Pentax will be coming out with their K7 which is supposed to have full motion HD video capability.
    • Tomorrow he is planning to go with some fishermen onto Lake Victoria. This is another of his things from his "List Of Things To Do in Kenya".
    • The weather every day seems to be the same - a high of 30 C or 86 F and a 30-50% chance of thunderstorms. Confirmed this on the weather web sites.
    • Ian claimed that he's posted a mailing address up on Twitter --- will check on this later tonight.
    • Finally Ian also says "Happy Birthday Grampa!"

Fishing Boats at Usenge Beach (Ross)

Saturday June 27, 2009

  • Ian sent Brittany a mailing address for CARE packages:
    • CLEAR Kisumu
      Guilderas Plaza 2nd Floor
      Oderas St. PO Box 3079
      Kisumu 40100
    • Kenya
  • Looking forward to speaking with Ian later today.
    • He tweeted: "I have an all-nighter project this afternoon into tomorrow afternoon, going out with fishermen at Usenge Beach near Uganda."

Fishing on Lake Victoria with the southern stars and Kisumu in the background (Ian MacLellan)

Sunday June 28, 2009

  • Apparently Ian made it back safely from his overnight fishingtrip. Today Ian Tweeted:
    • "Gets interesting when you find you are on the other side of the equator at 4 am in the middle of a lake with fishermen who know no English."
  • Check out Ian's favorite online comic XKCD
  • 9:23 AM EDT, 3:23 PM Local
    • Spoke with Ian and he told us about going out with the fishermen on Lake Victoria last night. We left from Usenge Beach around 8:00 PM and returned a little past 4:00 AM this morning. The boat was about 30 feet long, a flat bottomed boat (see picture to the left). They don't use a motor, but everyone paddles to maneuver the boat around. On the boat were ten fishermen, Humera, Henry Kissinger, and Ian. Ian said that he took "a bunch of pictures".
    • The crew did net fishing, but were very concerned with the police as they were fishing in a way that was not permitted. We brought the catch to the fish market when we came back.
    • Today Ian was at Joan Netto's house in Kisumu. Joan is of of the CLEAR legal advocates.
    • Ian reported that he was hoping to go back out with some other fishermen, perhaps later in the week to catch fish with laterns and wooden fishing traps.
    • Lots of trouble with Skype-to-mobile today. Most of the time Ian couldn't hear us at all, but we could hear him just fine as he told his stories.
  • 12:15 PM EDT, 7:15 PM Local
  • Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Night Fishing on Lake Victoria"

 No pictures today!

Monday June 29, 2009

  • Sadly we did not speak with Ian today. Pauline sent Ian a CARE package to our traveller with many of his favorite candies and things --- will take a week to get to Kisumu and costs more than you'd think possible.

 No pictures today!

Tuesday June 29, 2009

  • Pauline spoke with Ian today --- will post an update later.

Beauty Salon in the CK maximum security womens prision (Ian MacLellan)

Wednesday June 29, 2009

  • Brittany spoke with Ian at 3:00 AM EDT, 10:00 AM Local
    • "I just spoke with Ian via skype. He sounded great! We talked a bit about his trip to the three prisons yesterday. He was disappointed that he couldn't take more pictures.
    • "Today he was going with CLEAR members to a prison to teach prisoners about paralegal work. He's hoping to take a trip to the Kakamega Forest this weekend which he is excited about.
    • "He did sound great. And everytime he went quiet I realized he was just looking up computers (he's helping me pick out my next one) because he would burst back in with some random fact!
    • "I sent a very small package to Ian last Saturday with granola bars and candy in it. I was shocked at how expensive it was. He looks very thin in that picture! I'm glad people are sending him CARE packages!"
  • Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "GK Prision Beauty Salon"

Peter Onyango teaching young men at the Kisumu Childrenís Remand Home on how to behave in court.(Ian MacLellan)

Thursday July 2, 2009

  • Only the briefest of conversations with Ian today. He was at the Juvenille Remand and wasn't able to speak with us.

Early morning and sunrise at the Kakamega National Forest (Ian MacLellan)

Friday Juy 3, 2009

  • 12:36 EDT, 7:36 PM Local
    • Just spoke with Ian - he was at his house in Kisumu. For dinner tonight Ian and Humera plan to have pasta. He sounded great. Called both via his mobile phone and Skype-to-Skype.
    • Today they didn't get too much legal assistance work done. They visited the women's prision, but the wardent wouldn't let them see any of the women. They plan to go back with the needed paperwork at another time.
    • Ian reported having trouble cashing his Traveller Cheques. He visited nine places, six of the banks, before finding a bank to cash them. He's been very careful with his money since he's been there.
    • Today he went to an Internet cafe in Kisumu and spent time playing and searching the 'Net. FOr lunch they went to JJ's, Netta's restaurant.
    • Tomorrow they've organized an overnight visit to Kakamega Forest. They plan on leaving in the morning, getting a guide to show them around, stay overnight, and complete the visit Sunday.
    • From July 11th to the 15th they all plan on visiting one of the refugee camps to the north. They've connected with the UNHCR (the UN's refugee agency). Peter and Humera will be going together and they also have a connection with a lawyer there.

No Ian in the Kakamega National Forest (Ian MacLellan)

Saturday July 4, 2009

  • 10:58 AM EDT, 5:38 PM Local
    • Reached Ian at the Kakamega Forest National Reserve on his mobile phone. Ian and his travelling companions left Kisumu at 6:30 AM and were having a good time. Ian reported that there were monkies and babboons. They were eating a dinner of chicken and chapatti. We hope to speak with him again later.

Monkey in Kakamega National Forest (Ian MacLellan)

Sunday July 5, 2009

  • 2:35 PM EDT, 9:35 PM Local
    • Just spoke with Ian. He's back from the Kakamega Forest National Reserve. He reported that he saw three kinds of monkies, baboons, and wild pigs. He said it was beautiful, even though he did not have a map. He went on a great trail to the waterfall at the park, said it was pretty.
    • Ian sounded great. We had very poor quality connections today. Tried calling him Skype-to-Skype (could hear no more than one or two words), Skype to Mobile (horrible connection), and finally Net2phone to Mobile (this seemed to work the best).
    • Ian needs some Photoshop help from Stephen and we'll track him down as he's back from Maine.
    • Ian's Mom asked him to send us an email as soon as the packages arrive and he promised that he would.

What happened to the door??? (Ian MacLellan)

Monday July 6, 2009

Who needs a tow truck? (Ian MacLellan)

Tuesday July 7, 2009

Young boy and puppy (Ian MacLellan)

Wednesday July 8, 2009

Basketball in Kisumu (Ian MacLellan)

Thursday July 8, 2009

  • Brittany spoke with Ian twice:
    • "Spoke with Ian, but he isn't feeling well. He can't keep anything down at the moment. He's still up, sounds groggy but he's awake. Hasn't had a meal today so he's drained..."
    • "I spoke with Ian again before midnight (Boston time). He was already up because he didn't sleep well. He still didn't feel well at all and, of course, hadn't eaten anything, but he sounded better. More willing to talk. I told him to take the day off because he seems determined to go to the refugee camp on Saturday so we'll see if he takes it easy..."
  • Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "For Jon Creamer"

Portraits from a small Town (Ian MacLellan)

Friday July 10, 2009

 Portraits from a small Town (Ian MacLellan)

Saturday July 11, 2009

  • 4:30 PM EDT, 11:30 PM Local
    • Had a great talk with Ian today. He's feeling much better from his sickness - the antibiotics seem to be doing their job.
    • He's planning to head out around 5:30 AM for a trip to Kitale. From there they team hopes to catch a bus to Lodwar, where they plan on using for their base to get to the Kakuma refugee camps way up north that are run by the UNHCR (the UN's refugee agency). They basic plan is to travel Sunday, visit the camps, and be back in Kisumu Thursday or Friday. We're not sure if we're going to be in contact with Ian during this time. Told him to be extra careful on this trip.
  • Called him at 4:30 AM local time and woke him up so that he could get going

No pictures today!

Sunday July 12, 2009

  • Perhaps we'll will be speaking with Ian today. He's travelling to Lodwar via Kitale.

No pictures today!

Monday July 13, 2009

  • Brittany Wright managed to reach Ian in Lodwar today and reported:
    • "Ian was still sleeping and very tired. They traveled for over 17 hours yesterday. His plans to sleep on the bus didn't work out and he is now exhausted. He said they are currently in Lodwar and still had a good amount of traveling ahead of them. I let him get back to sleep, but not before promising again to be safe."

No pictures today!

Tuesday July 14, 2009

  • Brittany spoke with Ian today. She reported that he sounded fine --- more details later.

Business district in Kakuma Refugee Camp (Rhett A. Butler)

Wednesday July 15, 2009

  • Brittany spoke with Ian early today at their hotel in Lodwar and reported:
    • "Ian sounded better than yesterday. Peter had to return to Kisumu to attend to a case. The director of the camp showed Ian and Humera around and set them up with two translators. They are staying in a town near the camp, not in the town itself. He and Humera will be traveling back alone to Kisumu in two more days."
  • 12:30 PM EDT, 5:30 PM Local
    • Had a very long talk with Ian today. He and Humera are have been at the Kakuma refugee camp for two days. They are staying in a guest house and have found the experience eye-opening at many levels. They have a permit to be there for three days only, issued by the director of the refugee camp, and are considering extending it for one more day. The camp officially has 44,983 people from Somalia, Sudan, Ethiopia, Uganda, the Congo, Eretria, Rwanda, and several other African countries.
    • Ian was quite surprised about the actual set-up and operations of Kakuma. He had expected it to be a set of rough tents, with chaos and misery, but discovered a vibrant city of homes, business, and utilities. Not your ordinary refugee camp.
    • There are real buildings with utilities --- even satellite dishes. I had no problem reaching Ian on his mobile phone in Kakuma.
    • The homes and building are built in cooperation with the UNHCR, that apparently supplies the actual building materials. He was very surprised to learn that buildings can actually be bough and sold, especially when refugees leave the camps for a new host country.
    • He felt Kakuma was very safe, perhaps even safer than Kisumu. He was assigned two interpreters by the Camp Director and had been meeting, interviewing, and taking the pictures of many residents. The interpreters were from Sudan and were very kind and helpful to both Ian and Humera. One of the interpreters has been in the camp since 1991.
    • Ian remarked that more than once, Kakuma residents asked him to call them when he safely returned to the US. He was very touched by the outpouring of kindness by the residents.
    • He spoke extensively about an Ethiopian journalist that he met. The gentleman was a political refugee that runs the Kakuma newspaper, but his status as a refugee was "not determined".
    • Apparently the weather is very hot. Ian reported that it is 40-44 C (104-111 F) --- very hot indeed! Ian has been able to purchase bottled water without difficultly.
    • Ian has been taking portraits of several residents and wants to be able to mail copies back to the people. He wasn't quire sure how to actually do this.
    • Finally, Ian reported that Kakuma sports an amazing amount of signs --- they are everywhere. There are signs for the UN. Oxfam, IRS, Practice sans Fontier, Jesuit World Service, etc. in multiple languages. He took several pictures of these to share.
    • All in all, Ian sounded quite healthy, upbeat, and excited about his visit to Kakuma and we agreed to try to speak tomorrow.

No pictures today!

Friday July 17, 2009

  • Pauline spoke briefly with Ian today. He was waiting for the bus to start his journey back from Kakuma to Kisumu. He was not feeling the best after eating at an Etheopian restaurant, but thought he would be fine later.

School children learning the Quran in
the Kakuma refugee camp (Ian MacLellan)

Saturday July 18, 2009

  • 8:20 AM EDT, 3:00 PM Local
    • Just got off the phone with Ian. The usual troubles with Skype, but we had an OK quality call via Net2Phone.
    • Ian arrived back in Kisumu this morning after a very long twenty hour trip on a variety of transports. He was out having lunch, feeling well, and planning on visiting an Internet cafe later today to post some pictures. Let Ian know about the kidnapping of three foreign aid workers in northeast Kenya today.
    • He sounded great, perhaps only a little tired, and we're looking forward to speaking with him later today.
  • Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Kakuma Refugee Camp"

HIV prevention sign at the Kakuma refugee camp (Ian MacLellan)

Sunday July 19, 2009

Ian and Qaabata, the editor of the Kakuma Refugee Newspaper

Monday July 20, 2007

  • 5:30 PM EDT, 12:30 AM Local
    • Had a brief conversation with Ian via Net2Phone (slight propogation delay, excellent quality).
    • First off, he saids "Thank you for the CARE packages!!!" He was finally able to go and pick them up today --- after paying a $30 "administration fee" of some sort. He laughed as he told me about the canned tuna fish, roast beef, and other goodies sent from his grandmother. "It's so much!", Ian said, "Thank you for all the food, and the can opener, Grammy!"
    • He was already in bed, trying to get to sleep, so we kept the call to a minimum and agreed to speak longer tomorrow.
  • Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Me and Qaabata, the Editor of the Kakuma Refugee Newspaper"

Somali refugees inside the Kakuma Refugee Camp (Ian MacLellan)

Tuesday July 21, 2009

  • Pauline spoke with Ian today. He's doing well, enjoying the CARE packages from Grammy, his Mom, and Brittany. He's been contacted by Havard University to see if he could accompany some folks to projects in Kenya and Uganda and take photos for the college's magazine. Sounds quite interesting!
  • Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "More from Kakuma"

Inside a Kenyan prision (Ian MacLellan)

Wednesday July 22, 2009

  • Missed speaking with Ian today. He is working with Harvard Univisity's magazine on the details about a photo-shoot for their Provost and a visit to their projects in Kenya and Uganda. More as this develops.
  • Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Prison"

A carpenter working (Ian MacLellan)

Thursday July 23, 2009

Street child working in Kisumu (Ian MacLellan)

Friday July 24, 2009

Street child in Kisumu (Ian MacLellan)

Saturday July 27, 2009

Inside a prison showroom (Ian MacLellan)

Sunday July 26, 2009

  • Ian posted a Tweet that he's heading out soon to meet up with the Harvard Magazine staff
    • "About to get on a matatu to Busia, though I'm not sure whether I'll be sleeping in Kenya or Uganda tonight..."
  • 9:30 AM EDT, 4:30 PM Local
    • Just spoke with Ian on his mobile. He is now in Uganda! He was walking just past the border when I spoke with him, could hear people in the background. He said it's similar so far with Kenya, except the currency is different. His next stop is Busia in Uganda.
  • 4:00 PM EDT, 11:00 PM Local
    • Just had a great conversation with a very talkative Ian MacLellan. He says "Hi!" and was asking what everyone was up to.
    • Ian is staying at the New Hope Orphanage in Busia, Uganda with a volunteer named Chris Higgins. Ian reported that the children were happy and that they greeted him with a song and dance!
    • Chris is from the US and a student at Harvard. Chris originally started out doing a short-term volunteer assignment at the New Hope Orphanage, but now is working to make the orphanage financially self-sufficient and no longer dependent on foreign donations. Quite an ambitious task.
    • Ian took the day off to recharge, but took many personal photos. He reported that dinner tonight was perch caught from Lake Victoria.
    • Tomorrow Ian meets up with Elizabeth Gudrais an associate editor from the Harvard Magazine. He plans on spending the next week photographing various projects sponsored by Harvard University with Elizabeth and Chris.
  • Ian has posted a story on Demotix (a citizen-journalism website and photo agency) about the street children in Kisumu, Kenya.

 No pictures today!

Monday July 27, 2009

  • No phone call. Ian plannned on meeting up with Elizabeth and speak to the director of the orphanage.

Clinic in Bumwalukani, Uganda (Ian MacLellan)

Tuesday July 28, 2009

  • Pauline spoke with Ian today at 1:30 PM EDT, 6:30 PM Local
    • I had a good talk with Ian today. He spent yesterday in Busia Uganda at the orphanage meeting the children and hearing their stories. Chris, the Harvard student, is working to make the orphanage self sustaining. They just built a big pig barn and received delivery of a number of little piglets, and the chickens are coming next week. The children are happy, clean and well-fed.
    • Today, he traveled to Busia Kenya to meet with some scientists and researchers working at one of the largest research projects in Kenya. A really modern office complex, with over 100 foreigners working on a variety of projects, including clean water, public health, etc.... He ended the day back in Busia Uganda, and was eating dinner in an Indian restaurant there when I called him with Chris (the Harvard student), Elizabeth (the writer), and another young Harvard student who has been working for one of the research projects on HIV. They will be leaving really early tomorrow morning for their next destination.
    • He will be back in Kisumu on Saturday, and leave for Naorobi either Saturday or Sunday by bus. He will meet up with Humera, who has contracted him to teach a photography class at the school where she has been volunteering in the large slum just outside of Nairobi (I can't remember the name -- maybe Kindera ???). Then he leaves Monday evening to fly back home. YEAH!! It's about time!

Busia, Uganda (Ian MacLellan)

Wednesday July 29, 2009

  • Sadly, we did not speak with Ian today.

Clinic in Bumwalukani, Uganda (Ian MacLellan)

Thursday July 30, 2009

  • Tried calling Ian multiple times today. He's likely in Uganda, but his mobile phone does not answer.

The Head Boy at the New Hope Orphanage in Busia, Uganda (Ian MacLellan)

Friday July 31, 2009

  • Unable to again reach Ian today. He posted on Twitter:
    • "Last day in Mbarara, Uganda for Harvard Magazine. Tomorrow matatu to Kampala, then Matatu to Bsia, then matatu to Kisumu then to Nairobi!"
    • "Everyone I have been photographing is either a Harvard PhD and MD or severely impoverished. Oh the contrast!. Makes sense, I like contrast..."

A Matutu in Kisumu, Kenya (Ian MacLellan)

Saturday August 1, 2009

  • 10:30 AM EDT, 5:30 PM Local
    • Just spoke to Ian for only a few minutes. Right now our world traveller is in Kampala, Uganda trying to get a bus back to Kenya so that he can start his journey home.
    • The timing for Ian's trip from Uganda to Nairobi is going to be a little more than tricky. His bags at at a friend's house in Kisumu and there's not exactly enough time from when the bus arrives from Uganda to go and get his gear and catch the 11:00 PM Nairobi bus. He was trying to see if one of his friends could somehow meet him at the Kisumu bus terminal and then he could just make the Nairobi connection and arrive there about 5:00 AM Sunday morning. Sounded a little stressful to work out.
    • Ian reported that he enjoyed his experiences with the Harvard folks yesterday. He didn't have enough time to get into the all of the details, but the apparently the week's long journey ended with a trip to a local Kampala nightclub with folks from Harvard's global health department. Ian reported that he did not have anything to drink himself but enjoyed watching the crew unwind last night.
    • Not too many more details. We hope to speak with Ian later today while he's on the bus.

Waiting for Ian at Jetties Beach, Nantucket

Sunday August 2, 2009

  • 6:50 AM EDT, 1:50 PM Local
    • Ian has arrived in Nairobi after a long trip from Uganda. Was was not able to get his bags and catch the overnight bus from Kisumu to Nairobi and ended staying at a hotel in Kisumu. Early this morning Ian travelled by bus to Nairobi where he had just arrived when we spoke with him. He sounded great, just a bit tired from the travels.
    • In Nairobi, Ian was going to visit Joy'sat her home via taxi, leave his bags, andthen explore. Tonight he was not exactly sure where he was going to stay, perhaps another hotel.
    • We called him while on the Southeast Expressway in Boston heading souteast to Hyannis and then over on the Steamship Authority ferry to Nantucket. Ian was excited about his return to the US and the prospect of seeing everyone.
  • 4:45 PM EDT, 11:45 PM Local
    • Spoke with Ian while he was out at dinner with Joy, Joy's husband, Humera, and her freind. They were at the Carnivore Restaurant and, true to its name, they were eating course after course of various meats. You could hear all of the sounds of dinner in the background.
    • He reported that he was very tired but enjoying himself. We told him about Nantucket and he is looking forward to joining us.
    • Ian is staying at Joy's house tonight, enjoying their hospitality. Tomorrow Ian leaves for the airport to fly to Amsterdam and then on to the US.
  • 3:00 PM EDT, 10:00 PM Local
    • Ian is on the Northwest flight to Amsterdam. $30 in his pocket and quite an experience in his heart. Ian is very much looking forward to seeing everyone.
  • Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "One or two from Uganda"

Monday August 3, 2009

  • 12:00 Noon EDT, 7:00 PM Local
    • Spoke with Ian tonight as he was getting ready to head out to the airport. He's at Joy's house in Nairobi having dinner. In the background you could hear Joy's two children running and talking to Ian.
    • We'll check in later while he's at the airport and finalize the rest of his travel plans.
  • Ian leaves Nairobi, Africa. First stop: Amsterdam::
    • Flight information, Northwest Airlines, Departing 10:05 PM from Nairobi, Kenya (NBO), expected to arrive in Amsterdam, Netherlands (AMS) at 05:30 AM on a Boeing 777.

Boston, Massachusetts

Tuesday August 4, 2009

  • Ian returns to the US:
    • Flight information, Northwest Airlines, Departing 8:25 AM from Amsterdam, Netherlands (AMS), expected to arrive in Boston, Massachusetts (BOS) at 10:20 AM on a Boeing 757.

Nantucket Harbor

Wednesday August 5, 2009

About Ian MacLellan and his work in Kenya

Ian's business cards (Ian MacLellan)

Links and other Useful Information

Last Updated August 5, 2009

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