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Quick Progress Report 8/5/09:
Young boy in Ukwala Kenya (Ian MacLellan)
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"Where in the world is Ian today?"
Lincoln,
Massachusetts, USA
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Getting
a haircut from Dad before the trip
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Sunday May 31, 2009
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Boston Skyline from the Longfellow
Bridge
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Monday June 2, 2009
- Ian flew from Boston to Amsterdam, The Northwest/KLM flight was delayed by
almost four hours due to pilot sickness (taken to Mass General Hospital, illness unknown).
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Shops in Amsterdam Airport
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Tuesday June 2, 2009
From Ian's blog:
"I am currently in the airport in Amsterdam, way
behind schedule because my flight was delayed 4 hours from Boston to Amsterdam because the captain of the plane
fell ill and had to go to Mass General. KLM did a wonderful job of automatically booking everyone onto the next
available flight and they give out food vouchers too! They are worth a lot more in Amsterdam cause it’s ten Euros
vs. ten US Dollars. I bought an expensive UV filter at a fancy Amsterdam store (this is a very fancy airport, there
is a museum and massage station… and like 8 or 9 diamonds stores). I only bought 15 minutes of internet so will
upload photos when I can.
I have also been taking a lot of short videos so look forward to those all coming together over the next couple
months. Woot! I’ll be in Kenya a few days late, but will still get to be in Kenya, so no complaining"
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Wednesday June 3, 2009
- No word today from Ian. His flight from Amsterdam to Nairobi arrived arrived a few minutes early. Joy was planning
on meeting him at the Nairobi Airport.
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Kisumu Airport
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Thursday June 4, 2009
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Kenya Commercial Bank in Kisumu City Center
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Friday June 5, 2009
- Ian writes:
"I paid for the flight (from Nairobi to Kisumu) in Kenyan shillings - it was 6900 or so. We also bought
a 3G Internet modem which was 5000 ksh, so it's been a very expensive day.
"My room in Nairobi and two breakfasts and a dinner was $42. Tomorrow we plan on paying for half the room
price (we will be here for 6 weeks or so), so something around $210, which for 21 days isn't bad.
"Humera and I are living in a little two bedroom house, with a bathroom (heated
shower and everything!), living room, and a kitchen with an electric stove and microwave. We made pasta tonight,
but will need to start getting creative with our meals, perhaps learning how to cook local dishes. I have to go
back to sleep in a little bit and should be able to write much more tomorrow.
"All is well and we are both still happy and healthy."
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Saturday June 6, 2009
- 8:55 AM EDT, 3:55 PM Local
- Just spoke with Ian via Skype to his mobile. He was out having lunch with Humera, pleasant weather in the lower
80's. They were walking around Kisumu center, to the bank to get some money, and then down by Lake Victoria. He
reports that Kisumu is very nice and he feels that it is safe.
- Yesterday they visited a maximum security prison with a lawyer. They interviewed some prisoners that don't
have legal representation and the lawyers gave them advice. No photos allowed.
- For dinner last night, Ian and Humera made pasta (again). Time for some different dinner fare!
- For Internet connectivity, they have a wireless modem that uses the local 3G network, seems to behave like
a 56Kb modem.
- Read
Humera's article on the IBJ Blog.
- 4:46 PM EDT, 11:46 PM Local
- Called Ian over Skype to his mobile (you can only speak for a minute or so before the line drops - he was able
to speak with Brittany for alomost 30 minutes earlier):
- Ian went to the grocery store after lunch today and bought some cucumbers, apples, spices, more pasta, OJ,
and water (local water probably is not safe to drink). He and Humera worked some more today.
- For dinner tonight Ian and Humera made pasta with tomato, bean, and egg with fried cucumbers.
- Ian reported that the power only went out once today.
- Tomorrow they plan on more walking around Kisumu.
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Sunday June 7, 2009
- 10:36 AM EDT, 5:36 PM Local:
- Had a quick talk with Ian via Skype (the conversation keeps on dropping after about 30 seconds). He and Humera
are out exploring Kisumu again, haven't had lunch yet. It rained briefly today and the weather is very pleasent.
Will try to speak with him later.
- 5:20 PM EDT, 12:20 AM Local
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Images
from CLEAR broadcast at Kisumu radio station - Click for full story (Ian MacLellan)
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Monday June 8, 2009
- 2:10 PM EDT, 9:10 PM Local
- Spoke with Ian this afternoon. He was at a local radio station that was running a radio show hosted by CLEAR
Kenya --- the Christian Legal Education Aid & Research organization. You could hear the broadcast in the
background. CLEAR Kenya broadcasts weekly legal advice and education talks on local radio stations. Ian was taking
pictures, listening, and observing. He and Humera were taking a taxi back to the house later Monday evening.
- Tonight was Leftovers Night, reheating the spicy rice, corn, and hash browns from Sunday's dinner.
- Ian sounded good, perhaps just a wee bit tired. Looking forward to hearing more from Ian tomorrow.
- "Alive
and well, coming at you live from Kisumu, Kenya"
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Peter
Onyango Daniel thinking outside the court house in Oyugis (Ian MacLellan)
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Tuesday June 9, 2009
- 4:00 PM EDT, 11:00 PM Local
- Spoke with Ian on his mobile phone. Today Ian, Humera, and Peter Onyango
Daniel (the local CLEAR Kisumu advocate) took a bus to Oyugis
meet with a legal aid client. Ian reported that the bus ride was 200 Kenyan Shillngs (KES), took about one hour
and forty five minutes, and he thought it was safe.
- To get to Oyugis, they got up before 6:00 AM this morning (pretty early for Ian) and got on the bus around
8:00 AM. The ride started off with a boy standing up and preaching. Every seat on the bus was filled, but it quite
ordered and not overly crowded.
- For lunch Ian had a steak burger at Senorita's, a Mexican restaurant in Kisumu, which he reportedly enjoyed.
For dinner tonight Ian and Humera made rice and curry potatoes. They're expanding beyond pasta.
- Ian's has been staying up late every night --- for example last night he went to sleep around 1:30 AM (and
Brittany called around 2:30 AM). I'm sure it's been hard on his body clock.
- Ian reports no ill effects from the food or water, and that he's being careful and buying bottled water at
the local grocery store.
- Read
Ian's blog about the trip to Oyugus - "Following Peter to a court case in a far away world"
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Teddy teaches high school students
about Kenyan law (Ian MacLellan)
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Wednesday June 10, 2009
- 9:50 AM EDT, 3:50 PM Local
- Spoke with Ian this morning while he was driving back to Kisumu from a town about 80 kilometers away. Today
they went to a community outreach center that taught people how to use computers and about argriculture. Ian reported
that the highways are paved and pretty good for driving. He sounded great and you could hear all sorts of people
in the background.
- Read Ian's blog about
"CLEAR's outreach law club"
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Mr.Henry Kissinger (Ian MacLellan)
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Thursday June 11, 2009
- Read Ian's blog
entry - "The day I met Henry Kissinger"
- Check out Ian's great color
photos in his blog: "First week travels"
- 4:50 PM EDT, 11:50 PM Local
- Spoke with Ian on his mobile +254.71.299.4809. Today they went to another Law Club meeting at Xavier Secondary
School in Kisumu with Teddy, Dennis, and Josephine. Xavier is a Catholic high school and he reported that the students
were "very engaged."
- For lunch they went to a restaurant owned by one of the advocates called "JJ's". He has "Green
Grams" with chipote (sic?).
- When we spoke, you could hear dogs yapping and barking very loudly in the background. Ian said that the neighbors
had dogs, chickens, and cats (apparently in heat, due to the noises) in their yards.
- For dinner tonigh, Ian made chicken drumsticks with basil, onion, and garlic. The chicken was bought at the
grocery store. For desert they made crepes with banana, sugar, and honey. Sounds tasty!
- At the house that he and Humera are sharing this is only a radio for entertainment. No TV. For some reason,
several web sites are blocked on the Internet such as fox.com, Netflix, and Hulu.
- Ian reported that whenever he travels outside of Kisumu, all of the kids call out "Muzungu!
Muzungu!" whenever they see Ian. Not sure what is exactly means and we'll check it out.
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A student at Xavier Secondary School's Law Club
(Ian MacLellan)
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Friday June 12, 2009
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Thunderstorm over Kisumu, Kenya (Ian MacLellan)
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Saturday June 13, 2009
- 3:17 PM EDT, 10:17 PM Local
- Spoke briefly with Ian - he was visting Teddy's mother's house, will speak with him later.
- 4:16 PM EDT, 11:30 Local
- Today Ian went to visit a Kisumu juvenile detention center with Dennis. The center was celebrating "Day
of the African Child" and they sponsored many activities that Ian was able to participate in including
plays, poems, music, etc. Ian reported that it was a sad place where the children ranged in age from four to sixteen
years old. The children were there for a wide variety of reasons including being homeless, arrested, or orphaned.
Several asked Ian for help and he was kind and polite to everyone.
- While he was there, there were busses of other muzungus (white people) from NGO's and some may have been tourists.
Repeatedly Ian was given business cards from the NGO folks and they wanted him to work for them. He was able to
take hundreds of digital pictures and hopes to edit and upload several to his blog tonight. Ian said that there
is another day of this planned on Tuesday.
- For lunch they served a mystery meat --- no one was able to identify what it was. The children indicated that
they don't usually have meat and that this was special.
- After going to the detention center, Ian met up with Humera and Teddy. They went over to visit Teddy's family.
Teddy's mother is the principal at a girl's secondary school and they live inside the school's compound. She made
them a great dinner of chapatti, green grams, and cabbage. Ian politely eats whatever he is served and thoroughly
enjoyed the dinner.
- In the background, you can hear incessant barking from the local dogs (very loud) and all sorts of other noises
from cars, chickens, music, radios, etc. It's got to be hard for Ian and Humera to relax or sleep with all that
racket going on! We wished him "good night" and look forward to speaking with Ian tomorrow.
- Be sure to check out Ian's latest
blog entry - "Thunderstormz"!
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Boys dancing at the juvenile center
celebrating "Day of the Afican Child" (Ian MacLellan)"
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Sunday June 14, 2009
- 5:15 PM EDT, 12:15 AM Local
- Spoke with Ian while we were visting with Alex at tha Hampshire College Farm.
- Today he went to Kisumu with Humera. First she went to a local mosque while Ian waited outside. Later for lunch
they went to Netta's with some of Humera's acquantences from McGill.
- Ian reported that he got back to their house around 9:30 tonight and did not eat dinner.
- Be sure to check out
Ian's latest blog entry - "Day of the African Child"!
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A boy at the juvenile detention
center in Kisumu (Ian MacLellan)
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Monday June 15, 2009
- Spoke with Ian via Net2Phone to his mobile. Good quality connection. Didn't hear the usual racket of dogs,
chickens, and cars. Kisumu had gone to bed for the night.Today Ian met up with a Tufts alumni Josh
Goldstein --- found him via Twitter. Josh is a graduate of Tuft's Fletcher
Graduate School of International Affairs and is working in Africa for USAID
in Uganda and Kenya. He's been working on get low cost mobile phones into people's hands. They had lunch together
at a Kisumu restaurant and ate Indonesian Chicken.
- We spoke about his visit to the juvenile detention center on Saturday. Ian commented that the kids don't go
to school while they are there and that health conditions are mixed. We spoke about the kids with yellowish eyes
and what might be causing that. Also Ian pointed most of the high school kids - both girls and boys, have shaved
heads. Not clear why, but everyone is like that.
Ian went into the CLEAR office today. They are moving the office location tomorrow and Ian will get the new address
so that folks can perhaps send him care packages or letters.
- Tonight Ian cooked a dinner for himself and Humera of potatoes and cream and chicken with green and yellow
peppers.
- Sadly Ian's "point and shoot" Ricoh R8 camera is broken. He lent it to someone to shoot a video and
something happened - first the battery died, then the lens stopped working, finally it wouldn't turn on despite
his best efforts. Ian is bummed!
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An infant at the New Life Home Trust Orphanage
(Ian MacLellan)
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Tuesday June 16, 2009
- "Day of the African Child"
- 5:25 AM EDT, 12:25 PM Local
- Spoke to Ian for only a minute this morning. He was helping move CLEAR to a new office in Kisumu. You could
hear the sounds of people carrying boxes and things in the background.
- 5:57 PM EDT, 12:57 AM Local
- Spoke with Ian for a little less than ten minutes tonight. The phone call was very poor quality with more than
a second delay from the time he spoke until I could hear him.
- This morning Ian helped with the move of CLEAR to their new office. Ian said it was close to the old office.
Ian also described a visit from an NGO, but the connection was so bad I couldn't make out what he was saying.
- Later in the afternoon, Ian returned to Xavier Secondary School for a Law Club get together. It was not the
regular Law Club meeting, somehow less formal.
- Afterwards, he went back to his house and then they went out to dinner at the Re Café for Chicken and
chips. Ian reported that it was OK.
- Humera was doing well and everything else is good. It sounded pretty quiet at his house, no dogs barking, chickens
clucking, or music blaring.
- Tomorrow they are planning a trip to the Kisumu High Court. Later they plan on going to Lake Victoria and "go
to the beach" where they've been before. Ian said that it was not really a beach, more of the shore area,
but that is what people call it.
- Be sure to check out Ian's latest blog
entry - "New Life Home Trust Orphanage"
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No pictures today!
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Wednesday June 17, 2009
- 6:31 PM EDT, 1:20 AM Local
- Failed to reach Ian today --- we was actually asleep when called! Ian has been staying up until 2:00 or 3:00
in the morning, but obviously needed nis beauty sleep.
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Ian planning his activities for the next six
weeks (Ian MacLellan)
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Thursday June 18, 2009
- 5:40 AM EDT, 12:40 Local
- Just had a conversation with Ian. Excellent quality connection.
- He was still at his house in Kisumu, planning out today and tomorrow. They were discussing whether to go out
on a fishing boat onto Lake Victoria or joining an NGO to a trip to the Kakuma
refugee camp north of Kisumu.
- Last night they all went out for dinner again to Re Cafe. Ian has his usual plate of beans and chapatti
for dinner.
- He sounded well rested and full of his usual energy. He also wanted to make sure everyone wished Brittany "Happy
Birthday!"
- Two great blog entries:
- "Last Few Days"
- "Planning
Time"
- "So I’ve been in Kisumu for almost two weeks now and I decided a few days ago that I really need to
sit down and organize out everything I want to do and everything I want to cover for the general story on legal
issues and human rights in Kenya.
- "I started out making lists with check boxes next to each item so I could check them off when I was
done. I figured I wouldn’t actually get to check things off for awhile and expanded my search to the yellow pages
for all of Kenya..."
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Mr. Kissinger with a watermelon at a youth meeting (Ian MacLellan)
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Friday June 19, 2009
- 6:22 AM EDT, 1:22 PM Local
- Just got off the phone with Ian. He was at the CLEAR Kisumu office about to head out for lunch. Very bad connection
via Skype - I could hear Ian but after a few seconds he could not hear me.
- This morning they went to a peaceful demonstration against police violence in Kisumu. Ian was not sure who
orgainized it, perhaps the local Bishop who spoke. People were protesting against the poor treatment and issues
they are having with the police.
- For lunch, they were going to the local Police mess hall. Ian reported that the mess hall it is open to the
public and would give him a chance to meet some of the police officers.
- Looking forward to speaking with Ian later today. He sounded great today.
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"Churches are everywhere so I should
really have a picture of one..." (Ian MacLellan)
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Saturday June 20, 2009
- 5:50 AM EDT, 12:50 PM Local
- Dad and Uncle Igs called Ian for a quick update this morning. He was at a meeting at the Kisumu Hotel with
IBJ and CLEAR. We'll speak with him again later today.
- 2:00 PM EDT, 7:45 PM Local
- Spoke with Ian while driving. Ian, Joy (from IBJ), and Humera were at their house in Kisumu. This afternoon,
they had visited Hippo Point, but despite its name there
are no Hippopotamuses! Joy is staying with Ian and Humera despite the small siaz of their house (sounds like she
and Humera may have to share a bed). No definitive dinner plans yet.
- Ian thinks that he may have found a running route outside of Kisumu. Told him to be very careful and perhaps
find a fellow native runner to join him.
- From Casey and Maria: Performance by
Perpetuum Jazzile and The Real Group singling "Africa" that simulates a rain storm (wait a few seconds
for the sound!)
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View of Lake Victoria at Hippo Point (Ian MacLellan)
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Sunday June 21, 2009
- Be sure to check out Ian's latest
blog entry - "Hippo Point"
- 9:45 AM EDT, 4:45 PM Local
- Had a quick call with Ian - very poor quality on Skype on the call, each call would only last 30-40 seconds.
Ian wished me a "Happy Fathers Day!" Ian sounded great.
- Today Ian and crew travelled north to the town called Vihiga.
There they met with a "justice maker" and gave him a $1,000 grant (the GDP per capita in Kenya is estimated
at $1,600 so this is a substantial grant). Ian reported that Vahiga is a typical Kenyan town, very poor.
- Joy Mdivo from IBJ went back to her home in Nairobi this morning (couldn't hear from Ian how she was traveling).
We're going to try to connect with Ian later today and perhaps have a longer call.
- 4:00 PM EDT, 11:00 PM Local
- Tonight Ian watched a James Bond movie tonight -
"For Your Eyes Only". Apparently he bought the pirated video from a woman street vendor for 200 Kenyan
Shillings (about $2.50 USD). Buying a pirated DVD is on Ian's "To Do's" for Kenya. (See: "Planning Time" for Ian's
list)
- For food tonight Ian made a peanut and bannana sandwich. He commented that the peanut butter ws "not realy
all that good" and may cook something more substantial later tonight.
- In the backbround you could hear Humera's music playing away.
- Tomorrow Ian might take a day off from work and explore Kisumu.
- 6:21 PM EDT, 1:21 AM Local
- We all spoke with Ian via Skype-to-Skype tonight. Excellent connection! Stephen and Ian chatted away --- first
time that they've spoken since he been there. Ian admitted to Stephen that he's drinking soda (and juice occasinally,
but that's expensive) while in Kenya, since it's one of the few safe things to drink. They spoke a lot about food.
Ian claimed he couldn't get a live chicken at the market to butcher and cook because he didn't have a sharp knife.
- Stephen suggested that Ian teach Humera about blogs since all professonal journalists use blogs. The big question
was: "Was Henry Kissinger named after the real Henry Kissinger?" The answer was, "No." He was
very talkative with Stephen!
- Ian was asking about how Skype and VoIP handles something called "echo cancellation". Here's
a link for him to check out.
- Ian also has an NGO contact that he's going speak with about the refugee camps to the north.
- Check out Ian's blog
posting to the Tufts Exposure web site
- Check out Humera Jabir's postings to the IBJ blog (including
Ian's photos)
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Humera interviewing Evan, the man
from Vihiga that received IBJ's Just Maker award (Ian MacLellan)
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Monday June 22, 2009
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Joy Mdivo was crowned JusticeMaker at the CLEAR Kisumu
offices by Sanjeewa on Saturday (Ian MacLellan)
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Tuesday June 23, 2009
- Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Joy
Mdivo crowned JusticeMaker"
- 6:10 AM EDT, 1:10 PM Local
- Just spoke with Ian on his mobile phone via Skype, an OK connection that dropped only once
- Today Ian travelled to a small village an hour and a half to the west of Kisumu with Dennis and Christine.
They were planning on meeting with the villagers giving them basic legal education. Ian did not know the name of
the village. He hadn't spoken with anyone from the village yet and was about to do so when I called.
- Ian reported that is was hot and dusty there and he was sniffling just a bit. They are planning on spending
a few days there, staying overnight in a small secondary school. Humera and Peter were going to join them tomorrow.
- Will speak with Ian again later today.
- 4:41 PM EDT, 11:41 PM Local
- Just spoke with Ian. He only had a time for a quick conversation as he was at the local Catholic church where
he staying. He reported that they were slow to start their legal education at the village (failed to get the exact
village name from Ian). Steve called Ian's mobile phone via Net2Phone and conferenced Pauline in on the call. Good
call quality and no "drops".
- Tomorrow Ian and party are heading westward to the town of Akala.
- It sounded like Ian may be suffering from allergy problems, especially from the dust. He said he was taking
some Benadryl --- and sounded tired on the phone.
- He is looking forward to speaking with us tomorrow.
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Young boy dressed for school in Ukwala
Kenya (Ian MacLellan)
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Wednesday June 24, 2009
- 6:30 AM EDT, 1:30 PM Local
- Unable to reach Ian, likely travelleing.
- 11:20 AM EDT, 6:20 PM Local
- Spoke to Ian. He is on the road northwest of Kisumu in the village of Ukwala
Kenya, west of the B1 highway. They were hoping to do some legal education and awareness, but do not have permission
from the local chief to do so. They met with the deputy chief, but apparently they are not important enough for
an audience with the chief. He feels that the area is safe and Ian reported that they were expecting it to start
raining in the next few minutes.
- For lunch today they had Ugali (a type of cornmeal and water),
chicken, and kale. Ian said it was good, but wasn't really sure if it was kale. In background you could hear kids.
Ian said he was standing next to a small boy who was tending to his lambs. The Catholics served them dinner last
night.
- Ian reported that his allergies are a little better. What he's been doing is sometimes taking Benadryl at night
for this.
- Last night he and the crew stayed at the Catholic church, sleeping in the quarters that they have for missionaries.
They expect to return to Kisumu tomorrow morning. He said that he would really try to get us the mailing address
for the CLEAR offices so that we could send him a CARE package.
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Young boy in Ukwala Kenya
(Ian MacLellan)
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Thursday June 25, 2009
- Pauline (Ian's mom) reported:
- "I spoke with Ian around 2:00 this afternoon. He had just returned from his three day visit to the
villages northwest of Kisumu and he and Humera had restocked their kitchen at the market. He was tired and hungry.
The visit had not been as unproductive as he hoped, but Ian had been able to get up early this morning and hitch
a ride on the back of a motorbike to take photographs at a river he had noticed that was about 25 minutes away.
- "He told me that he had gotten a few good portraits of people on the trip, along with some interesting
landscape shots. Humera had joined them on the second day. The first day, she had gone to court with Peter. They
had stayed in the Catholic Church.
- "Ian was ready for a good shower and some dinner, so I kept the call short."
- Check out Ian's latest blog entry
- "Back from Ukwala"
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 No Ian
in Kisumu Kenya (looks like he's lost some weight!!!)
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Friday June 26, 2009
- 5:10 PM EDT, 12:10 AM Local
- Had a great (and long) conversation with Ian via Net2Phone to his mobile. He had lots of messages and information
to pass on. He had a chance to speak with Brittany today and update her on his whereabouts.
He's been back in Kisumu, but not too much happened today. He did meet up with two Kenyan geologists and they had
lunch at the police mess hall. They talked about blasting.
- For dinner tonight, Ian cooked a meal of potatoes, chapatti, and caramelized apples. What a cook! (Hey, didn't
he claim not to know how to cook?)
- Ian said to pass on a "congratulations" to his Mother on joining Healthworks.
- Ian was interested in Alex's farming jobs and especially liked the story about Alex helping delivery the calf.
- He is looking for some way to go visit some of the farms in the area. Heard that there are large farms outside
of Kisumu and thought it would be a good photography opportunity. We talked about the water situation in Kenya
and even though it's OK in Kisumu, it's a major problem in other areas.
- Ian says to tell Stephen and Heather: "If you can wait just a bit, Pentax
will be coming out with their K7 which is supposed to have full motion HD video capability.
- Tomorrow he is planning to go with some fishermen onto Lake Victoria. This is another of his things from his
"List Of Things To Do in Kenya".
- The weather every day seems to be the same - a high of 30 C or 86 F and a 30-50% chance of thunderstorms. Confirmed
this on the weather web sites.
- Ian claimed that he's posted a mailing address up on Twitter --- will check on this later tonight.
- Finally Ian also says "Happy Birthday Grampa!"
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Fishing Boats at Usenge Beach (Ross)
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Saturday June 27, 2009
- Ian sent Brittany a mailing address for CARE packages:
- CLEAR Kisumu
Guilderas Plaza 2nd Floor
Oderas St. PO Box 3079
Kisumu 40100
- Kenya
- Looking forward to speaking with Ian later today.
- He tweeted: "I have an all-nighter project this afternoon into tomorrow afternoon, going out with fishermen
at Usenge Beach near Uganda."
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 Fishing
on Lake Victoria with the southern stars and Kisumu in the background (Ian MacLellan)
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Sunday June 28, 2009
- Apparently Ian made it back safely from his overnight fishingtrip. Today Ian Tweeted:
- "Gets interesting when you find you are on the other side of the equator at 4 am in the middle of a
lake with fishermen who know no English."
- Check out Ian's favorite online comic XKCD
- 9:23 AM EDT, 3:23 PM Local
- Spoke with Ian and he told us about going out with the fishermen on Lake Victoria last night. We left from
Usenge Beach around 8:00 PM and returned a little past 4:00 AM this morning. The boat was about 30 feet long, a
flat bottomed boat (see picture to the left). They don't use a motor, but everyone paddles to maneuver the boat
around. On the boat were ten fishermen, Humera, Henry Kissinger, and Ian. Ian said that he took "a bunch of
pictures".
- The crew did net fishing, but were very concerned with the police as they were fishing in a way that was not
permitted. We brought the catch to the fish market when we came back.
- Today Ian was at Joan Netto's house in Kisumu. Joan is of of the CLEAR legal advocates.
- Ian reported that he was hoping to go back out with some other fishermen, perhaps later in the week to catch
fish with laterns and wooden fishing traps.
- Lots of trouble with Skype-to-mobile today. Most of the time Ian couldn't hear us at all, but we could hear
him just fine as he told his stories.
- 12:15 PM EDT, 7:15 PM Local
- Check out Ian's
latest blog entry - "Night Fishing on Lake Victoria"
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No pictures today!
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Monday June 29, 2009
- Sadly we did not speak with Ian today. Pauline sent Ian a CARE package to our traveller with many of his favorite
candies and things --- will take a week to get to Kisumu and costs more than you'd think possible.
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No pictures today!
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Tuesday June 29, 2009
- Pauline spoke with Ian today --- will post an update later.
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Beauty Salon in the CK maximum security
womens prision (Ian MacLellan)
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Wednesday June 29, 2009
- Brittany spoke with Ian at 3:00 AM EDT, 10:00 AM Local
- "I just spoke with Ian via skype. He sounded great! We talked a bit about his trip to the three prisons
yesterday. He was disappointed that he couldn't take more pictures.
- "Today he was going with CLEAR members to a prison to teach prisoners about paralegal work. He's hoping
to take a trip to the Kakamega Forest this weekend which he is excited
about.
- "He did sound great. And everytime he went quiet I realized he was just looking up computers (he's
helping me pick out my next one) because he would burst back in with some random fact!
- "I sent a very small package to Ian last Saturday with granola bars and candy in it. I was shocked
at how expensive it was. He looks very thin in that picture! I'm glad people are sending him CARE packages!"
- Check out Ian's latest
blog entry - "GK Prision Beauty Salon"
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 No
Peter Onyango teaching young men
at the Kisumu Children’s Remand Home on how to behave in court.(Ian MacLellan)
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Thursday July 2, 2009
- Only the briefest of conversations with Ian today. He was at the Juvenille Remand and wasn't able to speak
with us.
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Early morning and sunrise at the Kakamega National Forest (Ian MacLellan)
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Friday Juy 3, 2009
- 12:36 EDT, 7:36 PM Local
- Just spoke with Ian - he was at his house in Kisumu. For dinner tonight Ian and Humera plan to have pasta.
He sounded great. Called both via his mobile phone and Skype-to-Skype.
- Today they didn't get too much legal assistance work done. They visited the women's prision, but the wardent
wouldn't let them see any of the women. They plan to go back with the needed paperwork at another time.
- Ian reported having trouble cashing his Traveller Cheques. He visited nine places, six of the banks, before
finding a bank to cash them. He's been very careful with his money since he's been there.
- Today he went to an Internet cafe in Kisumu and spent time playing and searching the 'Net. FOr lunch they went
to JJ's, Netta's restaurant.
- Tomorrow they've organized an overnight visit to Kakamega Forest.
They plan on leaving in the morning, getting a guide to show them around, stay overnight, and complete the visit
Sunday.
- From July 11th to the 15th they all plan on visiting one of the refugee camps to the north. They've connected
with the UNHCR (the UN's refugee agency). Peter and Humera
will be going together and they also have a connection with a lawyer there.
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 No Ian
in the Kakamega National Forest (Ian MacLellan)
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Saturday July 4, 2009
- 10:58 AM EDT, 5:38 PM Local
- Reached Ian at the Kakamega Forest National Reserve on his mobile
phone. Ian and his travelling companions left Kisumu at 6:30 AM and were having a good time. Ian reported that
there were monkies and babboons. They were eating a dinner of chicken and chapatti. We hope to speak with him again
later.
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Monkey in Kakamega National Forest
(Ian MacLellan)
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Sunday July 5, 2009
- 2:35 PM EDT, 9:35 PM Local
- Just spoke with Ian. He's back from the Kakamega Forest National
Reserve. He reported that he saw three kinds of monkies, baboons, and wild pigs. He said it was beautiful,
even though he did not have a map. He went on a great trail to the waterfall at the park, said it was pretty.
- Ian sounded great. We had very poor quality connections today. Tried calling him Skype-to-Skype (could hear
no more than one or two words), Skype to Mobile (horrible connection), and finally Net2phone to Mobile (this seemed
to work the best).
- Ian needs some Photoshop help from Stephen and we'll track him down as he's back from Maine.
- Ian's Mom asked him to send us an email as soon as the packages arrive and he promised that he would.
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What happened to the door??? (Ian
MacLellan)
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Monday July 6, 2009
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Who needs a tow truck? (Ian MacLellan)
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Tuesday July 7, 2009
- Had an great conversation with Ian today - over thirty minutes! Ian had spent the whole day with Peter visiting
the home of a prosecutor an hour and a half outside of Kisumu. He was asking all about Alex, Stephen, Heather,
his Mom, the chickens, the weather, etc., etc.
- Very proud of Ian and everything he's been doing in Kenya. And some great pictures!
- Check out Ian's latest blog entries
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Young boy and puppy (Ian MacLellan)
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Wednesday July 8, 2009
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Basketball in Kisumu (Ian MacLellan)
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Thursday July 8, 2009
- Brittany spoke with Ian twice:
- "Spoke with Ian, but he isn't feeling well. He can't keep anything down at the moment. He's still up,
sounds groggy but he's awake. Hasn't had a meal today so he's drained..."
- "I spoke with Ian again before midnight (Boston time). He was already up because he didn't sleep well.
He still didn't feel well at all and, of course, hadn't eaten anything, but he sounded better. More willing to
talk. I told him to take the day off because he seems determined to go to the refugee camp on Saturday so we'll
see if he takes it easy..."
- Check out Ian's latest blog entry
- "For Jon Creamer"
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Portraits
from a small Town (Ian MacLellan)
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Friday July 10, 2009
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Portraits
from a small Town (Ian MacLellan)
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Saturday July 11, 2009
- 4:30 PM EDT, 11:30 PM Local
- Had a great talk with Ian today. He's feeling much better from his sickness - the antibiotics seem to be doing
their job.
- He's planning to head out around 5:30 AM for a trip to Kitale.
From there they team hopes to catch a bus to Lodwar, where they
plan on using for their base to get to the Kakuma refugee camps
way up north that are run by the UNHCR (the UN's refugee
agency). They basic plan is to travel Sunday, visit the camps, and be back in Kisumu Thursday or Friday. We're
not sure if we're going to be in contact with Ian during this time. Told him to be extra careful on this trip.
- Called him at 4:30 AM local time and woke him up so that he could get going
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No pictures today!
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Sunday July 12, 2009
- Perhaps we'll will be speaking with Ian today. He's travelling to Lodwar via Kitale.
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No pictures today!
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Monday July 13, 2009
- Brittany Wright managed to reach Ian in Lodwar today and reported:
- "Ian was still sleeping and very tired. They traveled for over 17 hours yesterday. His plans to sleep
on the bus didn't work out and he is now exhausted. He said they are currently in Lodwar and still had a good amount
of traveling ahead of them. I let him get back to sleep, but not before promising again to be safe."
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No pictures today!
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Tuesday July 14, 2009
- Brittany spoke with Ian today. She reported that he sounded fine --- more details later.
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Business district in Kakuma Refugee
Camp (Rhett A. Butler)
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Wednesday July 15, 2009
- Brittany spoke with Ian early today at their hotel in Lodwar and reported:
- "Ian sounded better than yesterday. Peter had to return to Kisumu to attend to a case. The director
of the camp showed Ian and Humera around and set them up with two translators. They are staying in a town near
the camp, not in the town itself. He and Humera will be traveling back alone to Kisumu in two more days."
- 12:30 PM EDT, 5:30 PM Local
- Had a very long talk with Ian today. He and Humera are have been at the Kakuma refugee camp for two days. They
are staying in a guest house and have found the experience eye-opening at many levels. They have a permit to be
there for three days only, issued by the director of the refugee camp, and are considering extending it for one
more day. The camp officially has 44,983 people from Somalia, Sudan, Ethiopia, Uganda, the Congo, Eretria, Rwanda,
and several other African countries.
- Ian was quite surprised about the actual set-up and operations of Kakuma. He had expected it to be a set of
rough tents, with chaos and misery, but discovered a vibrant city of homes, business, and utilities. Not your ordinary
refugee camp.
- There are real buildings with utilities --- even satellite dishes. I had no problem reaching Ian on his mobile
phone in Kakuma.
- The homes and building are built in cooperation with the UNHCR, that apparently supplies the actual building
materials. He was very surprised to learn that buildings can actually be bough and sold, especially when refugees
leave the camps for a new host country.
- He felt Kakuma was very safe, perhaps even safer than Kisumu. He was assigned two interpreters by the Camp
Director and had been meeting, interviewing, and taking the pictures of many residents. The interpreters were from
Sudan and were very kind and helpful to both Ian and Humera. One of the interpreters has been in the camp since
1991.
- Ian remarked that more than once, Kakuma residents asked him to call them when he safely returned to the US.
He was very touched by the outpouring of kindness by the residents.
- He spoke extensively about an Ethiopian journalist that he met. The gentleman was a political refugee that
runs the Kakuma newspaper, but his status as a refugee was "not determined".
- Apparently the weather is very hot. Ian reported that it is 40-44 C (104-111 F) --- very hot indeed! Ian has
been able to purchase bottled water without difficultly.
- Ian has been taking portraits of several residents and wants to be able to mail copies back to the people.
He wasn't quire sure how to actually do this.
- Finally, Ian reported that Kakuma sports an amazing amount of signs --- they are everywhere. There are signs
for the UN. Oxfam, IRS, Practice sans Fontier, Jesuit World Service, etc. in multiple languages. He took several
pictures of these to share.
- All in all, Ian sounded quite healthy, upbeat, and excited about his visit to Kakuma and we agreed to try to
speak tomorrow.
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No pictures today!
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Friday July 17, 2009
- Pauline spoke briefly with Ian today. He was waiting for the bus to start his journey back from Kakuma to Kisumu.
He was not feeling the best after eating at an Etheopian restaurant, but thought he would be fine later.
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School children learning the Quran in
the Kakuma refugee camp (Ian MacLellan)
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Saturday July 18, 2009
- 8:20 AM EDT, 3:00 PM Local
- Just got off the phone with Ian. The usual troubles with Skype, but we had an OK quality call via Net2Phone.
- Ian arrived back in Kisumu this morning after a very long twenty hour trip on a variety of transports. He was
out having lunch, feeling well, and planning on visiting an Internet cafe later today to post some pictures. Let
Ian know about the kidnapping of three foreign aid workers in northeast Kenya today.
- He sounded great, perhaps only a little tired, and we're looking forward to speaking with him later today.
- Check out Ian's latest blog
entry - "Kakuma Refugee Camp"
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HIV prevention sign at the Kakuma refugee
camp (Ian MacLellan)
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Sunday July 19, 2009
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Ian
and Qaabata, the editor of the Kakuma Refugee Newspaper
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Monday July 20, 2007
- 5:30 PM EDT, 12:30 AM Local
- Had a brief conversation with Ian via Net2Phone (slight propogation delay, excellent quality).
- First off, he saids "Thank you for the CARE packages!!!" He was finally able to go and pick them
up today --- after paying a $30 "administration fee" of some sort. He laughed as he told me about the
canned tuna fish, roast beef, and other goodies sent from his grandmother. "It's so much!", Ian said,
"Thank you for all the food, and the can opener, Grammy!"
- He was already in bed, trying to get to sleep, so we kept the call to a minimum and agreed to speak longer
tomorrow.
- Check
out Ian's latest blog entry - "Me and Qaabata, the Editor of the Kakuma Refugee Newspaper"
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Somali refugees inside the Kakuma Refugee
Camp (Ian MacLellan)
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Tuesday July 21, 2009
- Pauline spoke with Ian today. He's doing well, enjoying the CARE packages from Grammy, his Mom, and Brittany.
He's been contacted by Havard University to see if he could accompany some folks to projects in Kenya and Uganda
and take photos for the college's magazine. Sounds quite interesting!
- Check out Ian's latest blog entry
- "More from Kakuma"
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Inside a Kenyan prision (Ian MacLellan)
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Wednesday July 22, 2009
- Missed speaking with Ian today. He is working with Harvard Univisity's magazine on the details about a photo-shoot
for their Provost and a visit to their projects in Kenya and Uganda. More as this develops.
- Check out Ian's latest blog entry - "Prison"
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A carpenter working (Ian MacLellan)
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Thursday July 23, 2009
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Street
child working in Kisumu (Ian MacLellan)
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Friday July 24, 2009
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Street
child in Kisumu (Ian MacLellan)
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Saturday July 27, 2009
- Pauline spoke with Ian very briefly today. He hasn't had power or water for alomost a week and his cell phone
was not charged. He was planning on heading out tomorrow for western Kenya and then Uganda.
- Check
out Ian's latest blog entries
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Inside a prison showroom (Ian MacLellan)
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Sunday July 26, 2009
- Ian posted a Tweet that he's heading out soon to meet up with the Harvard
Magazine staff
- "About to get on a matatu to Busia,
though I'm not sure whether I'll be sleeping in Kenya or Uganda tonight..."
- 9:30 AM EDT, 4:30 PM Local
- Just spoke with Ian on his mobile. He is now in Uganda! He was walking just past the border when I spoke with
him, could hear people in the background. He said it's similar so far with Kenya, except the currency is different.
His next stop is Busia in Uganda.
- 4:00 PM EDT, 11:00 PM Local
- Just had a great conversation with a very talkative Ian MacLellan. He says "Hi!" and was asking what
everyone was up to.
- Ian is staying at the New Hope Orphanage in Busia, Uganda with a volunteer named Chris Higgins. Ian reported
that the children were happy and that they greeted him with a song and dance!
- Chris is from the US and a student at Harvard. Chris originally started out doing a short-term volunteer assignment
at the New Hope Orphanage, but now is working to make the orphanage financially self-sufficient and no longer dependent
on foreign donations. Quite an ambitious task.
- Ian took the day off to recharge, but took many personal photos. He reported that dinner tonight was perch
caught from Lake Victoria.
- Tomorrow Ian meets up with Elizabeth Gudrais
an associate editor from the Harvard Magazine. He plans on spending the next week photographing various projects
sponsored by Harvard University with Elizabeth and Chris.
- Ian has posted a story on Demotix (a
citizen-journalism website and photo agency) about the street children in Kisumu, Kenya.
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No pictures today!
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Monday July 27, 2009
- No phone call. Ian plannned on meeting up with Elizabeth and speak to the director of the orphanage.
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Clinic in Bumwalukani, Uganda (Ian
MacLellan)
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Tuesday July 28, 2009
- Pauline spoke with Ian today at 1:30 PM EDT, 6:30 PM Local
- I had a good talk with Ian today. He spent yesterday in Busia Uganda at the orphanage meeting the children
and hearing their stories. Chris, the Harvard student, is working to make the orphanage self sustaining. They just
built a big pig barn and received delivery of a number of little piglets, and the chickens are coming next week.
The children are happy, clean and well-fed.
- Today, he traveled to Busia Kenya to meet with some scientists and researchers working at one of the largest
research projects in Kenya. A really modern office complex, with over 100 foreigners working on a variety of projects,
including clean water, public health, etc.... He ended the day back in Busia Uganda, and was eating dinner in an
Indian restaurant there when I called him with Chris (the Harvard student), Elizabeth (the writer), and another
young Harvard student who has been working for one of the research projects on HIV. They will be leaving really
early tomorrow morning for their next destination.
- He will be back in Kisumu on Saturday, and leave for Naorobi either Saturday or Sunday by bus. He will meet
up with Humera, who has contracted him to teach a photography class at the school where she has been volunteering
in the large slum just outside of Nairobi (I can't remember the name -- maybe Kindera ???). Then he leaves Monday
evening to fly back home. YEAH!! It's about time!
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Busia, Uganda (Ian MacLellan)
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Wednesday July 29, 2009
- Sadly, we did not speak with Ian today.
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Clinic in Bumwalukani, Uganda (Ian
MacLellan)
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Thursday July 30, 2009
- Tried calling Ian multiple times today. He's likely in Uganda, but his mobile phone does not answer.
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The Head Boy at the New Hope Orphanage
in Busia, Uganda (Ian MacLellan)
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Friday July 31, 2009
- Unable to again reach Ian today. He posted on Twitter:
- "Last day in Mbarara, Uganda for Harvard Magazine. Tomorrow matatu to Kampala, then Matatu to Bsia,
then matatu to Kisumu then to Nairobi!"
- "Everyone I have been photographing is either a Harvard PhD and MD or severely impoverished. Oh the
contrast!. Makes sense, I like contrast..."
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A Matutu in Kisumu, Kenya (Ian MacLellan)
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Saturday August 1, 2009
- 10:30 AM EDT, 5:30 PM Local
- Just spoke to Ian for only a few minutes. Right now our world traveller is in Kampala, Uganda trying to get
a bus back to Kenya so that he can start his journey home.
- The timing for Ian's trip from Uganda to Nairobi is going to be a little more than tricky. His bags at at a
friend's house in Kisumu and there's not exactly enough time from when the bus arrives from Uganda to go and get
his gear and catch the 11:00 PM Nairobi bus. He was trying to see if one of his friends could somehow meet him
at the Kisumu bus terminal and then he could just make the Nairobi connection and arrive there about 5:00 AM Sunday
morning. Sounded a little stressful to work out.
- Ian reported that he enjoyed his experiences with the Harvard folks yesterday. He didn't have enough time to
get into the all of the details, but the apparently the week's long journey ended with a trip to a local Kampala
nightclub with folks from Harvard's global health department. Ian reported that he did not have anything to drink
himself but enjoyed watching the crew unwind last night.
- Not too many more details. We hope to speak with Ian later today while he's on the bus.
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Waiting for Ian at Jetties Beach, Nantucket
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Sunday August 2, 2009
- 6:50 AM EDT, 1:50 PM Local
- Ian has arrived in Nairobi after a long trip from Uganda. Was was not able to get his bags and catch the overnight
bus from Kisumu to Nairobi and ended staying at a hotel in Kisumu. Early this morning Ian travelled by bus to Nairobi
where he had just arrived when we spoke with him. He sounded great, just a bit tired from the travels.
- In Nairobi, Ian was going to visit Joy'sat her home via taxi, leave his bags, andthen explore. Tonight he was
not exactly sure where he was going to stay, perhaps another hotel.
- We called him while on the Southeast Expressway in Boston heading souteast to Hyannis and then over on the
Steamship Authority ferry to Nantucket. Ian was excited about his return to the US and the prospect of seeing everyone.
- 4:45 PM EDT, 11:45 PM Local
- Spoke with Ian while he was out at dinner with Joy, Joy's husband, Humera, and her freind. They were at the
Carnivore Restaurant and,
true to its name, they were eating course after course of various meats. You could hear all of the sounds of dinner
in the background.
- He reported that he was very tired but enjoying himself. We told him about Nantucket and he is looking forward
to joining us.
- Ian is staying at Joy's house tonight, enjoying their hospitality. Tomorrow Ian leaves for the airport to fly
to Amsterdam and then on to the US.
- 3:00 PM EDT, 10:00 PM Local
- Ian is on the Northwest flight to Amsterdam. $30 in his pocket and quite an experience in his heart. Ian is
very much looking forward to seeing everyone.
- Check out Ian's latest
blog entry - "One or two from Uganda"
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Monday August 3, 2009
- 12:00 Noon EDT, 7:00 PM Local
- Spoke with Ian tonight as he was getting ready to head out to the airport. He's at Joy's house in Nairobi having
dinner. In the background you could hear Joy's two children running and talking to Ian.
- We'll check in later while he's at the airport and finalize the rest of his travel plans.
- Ian leaves Nairobi, Africa. First stop: Amsterdam::
- Flight information, Northwest Airlines, Departing 10:05 PM from Nairobi, Kenya (NBO), expected to arrive in
Amsterdam, Netherlands (AMS) at 05:30 AM on a Boeing 777.
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Boston, Massachusetts
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Tuesday August 4, 2009
- Ian returns to the US:
- Flight information, Northwest Airlines, Departing 8:25 AM from Amsterdam, Netherlands (AMS), expected to arrive
in Boston, Massachusetts (BOS) at 10:20 AM on a Boeing 757.
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Nantucket Harbor
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Wednesday August 5, 2009
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About Ian MacLellan and his work in Kenya
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Ian's business
cards (Ian MacLellan)
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Links and other Useful Information
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